You have a family. You're going to need a plan. And a bankroll.
You know, it still works. Books, maps, and an app or two,and you're off to a great start.
You can't show up in Paris naked, no matter how liberal Euros are about these things. Try to be smart about what you take with you.
OK, so how much is all of this going to run you? I should have started with that question long ago, since that’s the first question that you should ask: what has it cost you, what have you won? When I go to Europe I start with an estimate of $10,000. $1,000/person for airline tickets, $4,000; $200/night for 10 nights, $2,000; $100/day for a decent rental vehicle with car seats, $1,000 – That’s $7,000 already. Call it $300/day for the actual fun stuff – dining, tickets, purchases. $10,000.
Yep, that’s why I don’t go every year, or even every other year. I don’t have $1,000 in my monthly budget to set aside to save for a trip, which is what you should do. Your tax refund won’t cover that either, not by a long shot. But you should try to set aside $400/month in a fund, over two years that will get you there. Or, if you’re lucky enough to get a bonus, make that the kitty.
After that, you’re going to have to try to shave costs where you can. I put in $1,000/ticket, but shoot for $800. You can rent a vacation apartment for $1,000 for a week, plus a few extra nights, call it $1,500. Cut down on the number of driving days: $600. Go off season and save another 15%. Depending on where you make your compromises, you can still have a great time at $7,000. Below that and you’re risking your trip. But $300/month over two years will get you to that $7,000. Reachable.
You want to go for less? I briefly discussed travel agencies and packages. On the former – they can be great resources, true, if you have a good agent. They’ll certainly save you money if you don’t want to do any of the legwork I’ve outlined, but you won’t be going on the cheap. On Packages and Tour Operators…I firmly believe you get what you pay for, here. If that room is being discounted heavily, it *may* be because of volume through the operator. Or, it may be because that hotel has trouble getting repeat business. I’ve purchased through a package operator once: it was indeed a low price (though I can’t recall what it was). Covered flight (NYC-Paris) and a three star hotel in a convenient neighborhood. Caveats: you had to fly out of NYC, so factor in the cost to get there (I’ll guarantee you no tour operator runs packages out of Birmingham, and no, as much as I like putting these trips together, there’s not enough local volume to make it a viable business). The flight was Wed-Wed – it’s a small thing, maybe, but I hate losing the extra weekend. Ideally, you fly Fri-Sun combos, right, to max the weekends – fit in 9 days while only taking 5 off. It makes a difference. As to the hotel...it may have qualified as a three star, but it was pretty shabby, and the mattress was far from comfortable. To be fair, I’ve had that issue with other three star hotels, especially in France. This was in the days before TripAdvisor, so perhaps now you can do better vetting of package hotels before purchasing. More likely you’ll be able to AirBnB your way into a better spot. And I won’t even get into the group tours, nope, not waiting around for other people to get on the darn tour bus so we can go to the net spot.
So – count on $10,000, you’ll have a great time if you can swing it. Go off-season, if you must, and you can compromise on dining out – eat large breakfasts at the hotel (usually included) and make sandwiches for lunch. But *don’t* spend $4,000 on a cheapie trip and walk away from it remembering only the bad food and rotten hotel. In that regard, a trip is a lot like a wedding: horribly expensive, and not necessarily worth it. You get good memories and photos, mostly. But if you cheapen up on a few key things (e.g., cash bar) you leave with the wrong memories.
I really only have two, two and a half pages worth of interesting and useful stuff for a blog, and in case you haven’t noticed, a lot of the rest is just filler. Not that filler isn't a noble tradition in arts and letters: even Homer knew how to turn a catalog of ships into a whole chapter. I think my tips for finding good flights, and/or business class tickets through Delta miles are useful. I also think this is: how to plan your trip properly. With photos!
I’m going to assume you’ve picked a general destination – usually one of the more common hubs: Paris, London, Frankfurt, Milan, etc. Now you’ve got to work out the actual tour details. For this, you will need:
A large travel map of your destination
Colored push pins
A cork board
Reference materials (travel books, magazines, web sites)
You probably have a cork board; a good travel map is $15, maybe, but it will come in handy. $2 for the push pins. For reference materials, go to your library and use sites like Trip Advisor. Prepare your map – attach it to the board, I use large gem clips. Focus on the broader areas you think you may want to hit.
Now, do your detailed research. Read all the guides, and every time you find a site (or restaurant, etc) that you want to go to, pin it. Color code them: for me – dark means “must see”, lighter means “see, time permitting”. Etc. Take your time on this. In the end, you’ll have a pretty good Heat Map of where your vacation will take place.
Hurray! You can start to make decisions: is it worth driving all the way to Site A, then back-tracking to Site B? How many things are there to see at Site C? The map will give you a good sense of how far apart sites are, and how much driving will be involved. Obviously a computer will be more precise, but you have to keep entering the info. This gives you a pretty good view at a glance.
Here’s the key point: The Heat Map you’ve generated in the push pin process will help you decide where you want to stay, and this is something most apps have yet to figure out, which is, where to stay so to minimize transit time while seeing the most of what you can (it’s a fairly complicated mathematical problem, but the human brain does a good job approximating the solution quickly). When you see a heavy cluster of spots, there you go – pick a central location, and it won’t always be in a big city. You may want one spot in between two clusters, for example, rather than having to stay in two different spots. One thing about travel books and web sites is that they are particularly geared towards city locations. That’s often convenient, but getting out and back into city hotels can be a hassle, if you’re taking day trips. Country lodging is often less expensive, and gives you more flexibility. Often you can use public transportation -- trains -- to get you right into the center of a big city. Regardless, the visual on this should give you options you may not have considered through regular booking tools.
Astute readers will have noticed that, in all my previous posts, I haven’t discussed lodging, and this was the reason. I consider the location of the lodging to be of primary importance, and until I know the places I’m going, I can’t make any reservations. There are a couple of spots where I consider the quality and value of the lodging to be so high that I’m willing to build an itinerary around my stay there. But that’s the rare exception, and I haven’t actually acted on it yet. I prefer to see a new place rather than return to one I’ve been to, though eventually I’ll cycle back to here and here.
Anyway, you are, at last, ready to look for lodging in the specific areas you want. I first scout the best places in each likely location, and mark those with yet a different pin -- it's hard to see on the photo above, but my target hotels are pink. You should use some of the more common internet tools to check rates, availabilities, and user/expert reviews of properties. It’s up to you to weigh factors like cost vs. convenience.
I like to be able to travel in a loop that starts and ends at the arrival airport: you want to avoid retracing steps, if you can, that’s wasted driving. And if possible, I prefer to be able to set up camp for an extended stay in one spot. It’s less packing and unpacking, and often better rates, especially on weekly stays. You just have to make sure the location supports enough to do and see in the week, with minimal driving (again, London and Paris work for this, but I really wouldn’t want to spend an entire week in Munich, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, or Prague, as lovely as those cities are).
Anyway, when you’ve picked and booked your locations, you’ll make your final adjustments to the map, and that will be your trip. You can’t carry the pinned map with you on the trip, so you can mark up the map with highlighters, write the itinerary down in a planner, and/or transfer it to an itinerary app.
One final benefit of using the map method, and it’s not a small one: it’s really easy to use to discuss planning with your family, including kids. Unless you have a very large screen or projector system, the big map will best show you sights and distances, and let your spouse have more say in what to keep and what to discard. Sure, Rothenburg may be a great attraction, but look – it’s awfully far away from our other must-do sights. Do we really need to squeeze it in? When you see how far it is on the map, your choices get clearer.
I find lodging secondary to flight & destination. And so I tend to book lodging until after I've chosen my flights. Usually, the flight will be the largest expense line item on your trip, so you have to be extra careful when shopping. With hotels, you have more to choose from, and more options, so you can often wait until much further down the road and still get a good deal.
Often, but not nearly always, I'm afraid, and I'll get into those situations where you *must* look well in advance. First, a few general thoughts. With lodging, you have many more choices than airlines. Airlines will try to differentiate between each other on service, but for the most part, a seat on Delta is the same as a seat on Lufthansa. And within the airplane itself, there's virtually no difference in coach seating outside of aisle/window preference. Customers know this, so airlines are forced to play their very competitive pricing games.
Hotels have some of these features, and when possible, it's best to take advantage of them. Chains impose standards of style and quality that often make a room at a Sheraton indistinguishable from a room at a Hilton. If you are traveling to a location that has one or several chains in the target area, use the tools of the internet to get you your best price.
There are dozens of tools; the ones I tend to use are Trivago, Hotels.com, Booking.com, Hotwire.com, and Priceline.com. Let's talk about the first three -- the aggregators, which includes Travelocity and Expedia, and others. It's pretty simple, they buy bulk rooms and resell to you at a discount. Chains especially use these to fill huge quantity, and it works out for them. Indeed, there's a perception that if you book through an aggregator, you'll get the worst room in the place, but that's not true. If you don't like your room you booked through Travelocity, tell the hotel staff you're going to call Travelocity right away: Travelocity has more pull than you do in this matter. So, don't fight it, use the aggregators: but, beware, if you're traveling with kids, you'll face special issues.
That is: You have to make sure you book the right room. I need a room for two adults and two kids. Usually I can get by with booking a plain double and being a bit cramped, especially if it's just a couple of days -- I don't really need the junior suite. So my searches will often just be for a double. If you search for two adults and two kids, you'll be limited to the aforementioned suites, and that will cost you.
Now, in the US, it's almost never a problem to show up with a reservation for a double, and ask for an extra kid's bed; many US rooms come with fold out sofas anyway. US hotels don't much care, they're renting out a room, and the price is attached to the room, not the occupants.
This is *not* the same in Europe. There, it's fairly common to charge per person, not per room. A room with a double bed may be rented out for 100 Euros single occupancy, 150 Euros double occupancy: same room, different price. Thus: if you book a plain double room, and show up with two kids...well, you're out of contract. They can cancel the reservation or upcharge you a bunch, and you'll have a lot less pull with the aggregator since you were trying to game the system. Worst case is that they can refuse the room stay, and you're out on your ear. It happens.
That doesn't mean you can't use the aggregators, but just be careful. If you book the double, and have to add kids, call the aggregator before you arrive, hopefully well before. See if they can make the arrangements: better to have it completed than have to worry about it on the spot.
Now, I find dealing with aggregators in this fashion to be annoying -- you're having to shuttle your specific request through them to the hotel, and you don't really know what's going on there. Therefore I prefer to use the aggregators as a pricing check, to see what a reasonable rate is. Then I go directly to the hotel and ask for a rate.
OK, so perhaps you don't like bargaining. I hear you: one of the wonderful things about being a Westerner is that we've largely cut haggling out of our day-to-day lives. We pay the marked price ad move on. Imagine the annoyance if we had to strike a deal every time we went to the grocery store: yet much of the world lives like this. No, price bargaining is conflict, and plus, we worry that we look cheap. It's become unnatural for Westerners in daily life.
But there are real dollars at stake here, and that hotel has plenty of margin: they're going to make a profit, don't worry. This is how I like to go about my hotel negotiation:
Obviously, I get the internet rate first. Then I prefer to email the hotel asking for availability for a short stay -- one or two nights. They'll check, and at that point -- now that I've shown real booking interest, I'll enquire if they can match internet pricing. Simple, right? It almost always works. And emailing takes the stress out of it, though if you want to call them, go right ahead.
When it doesn't work right away: note that I asked for a 1-2 night figure. If they stay firm on rack rate, I'll tell them I'm still interested. I'll wait a couple of days, and then come back with a revised offer: how about 6 nights at the heavily discounted rate? Now I'm offering them an exchange: more nights, that should equate to a lower rate, and it gives them the opportunity to say yes. In these cases, you want the hotel to feel like they got something out of the negotiation, instead of just saying yes to a lower price. It assumes I can stay there for 6 nights, of course, that should be an option for you (if the price is right).
Now, the aggregators get pretty good rates, but you can do better with the two auction-style outfits, Hotwire and Priceline. They work slightly differently, if you've never used them before, but the outcome is the same. You can choose a location (a neighborhood in most cities), a hotel class, and a price range (or fixed amount bid). Then you book, and they tell you which hotel you've chosen. No backing out: you're stuck with the selection.
If I'm going to a city I know well -- Chicago, Manhattan, DC -- I'll be more likely to take this gamble, especially if I'm by myself. But if I'm picking out a neighborhood in a city I don't know...I'll pass on this strategy. It's perfectly reasonable to say, "a room is a room, as long as it's comfortable -- all I'm doing is sleeping there." I get that. But a lot can go wrong past that. The location could be noisy, or even dangerous. Ask yourself: why is this hotel having to discount their rooms so much? Hotwire & Priceline will tell you it's volume, or maybe last-minute deals. Personally, I've found these hotels often have a serious flaw, and are forced to discount. I would proceed with caution -- you get what you pay for, and sometimes not even that.
So much for the basics. But these help you only so much: eventually you'll need a place that doesn't use the aggregators.
Recapping above: use the competitive tools for major city hotel bookings. Chains will generally have level standards. Beware low-ball prices in major markets, there’s often a catch. Be sure arrangements for kids are made in advance.
Small markets and specialty hotels may not use the internet aggregators. Determine reasonable rates, and ingratiate yourself with the hotel booking agent.
OK, so let’s now say you’re booking a lovely little country inn in a region you’ve selected from my pin & map planning method. Naturally you’ve scoped Trip Advisor and maybe Frommers to get a rating. I find the TA comments to be very useful – sometimes a property gets an unjustified one-star that drags the total down. Though sometimes the one stars are justified – show some solidarity with mistreated travelers, will you? We saw one rating on an otherwise nice property that turned away a family at night because they only needed one night, not two. That’s lousy, and I don’t care if everyone else loved the place.
The one thing you must do before booking a small town property, or boutique city hotel, is a Google street view (or at least a close up satellite view). A few years ago, we booked a lovely chateau in Normandy, set in the woods with a fairy tale tower. The photos were astounding. And so was the place, except it wasn’t deep in the forest. A major highway was maybe 200 yards away from the place. You couldn’t really see it through the woods, but you knew it was there. It spoiled the effect (though please note it was a lovely and convenient spot none the less).
You’ll want to catch that, or other problems. You may not be near a highway, but perhaps there’s a factory within sight that magically doesn’t show on the photos. Even user photos can miss these, and they can absolutely spoil a view. You’ll also want to see what your situation is in regard to a local village. Can you walk to a local restaurant? If you’re in a location for more than a few days, having a good local diner is a huge plus, even if the hotel serves food. Likewise a walkable pharmacy or some kind of convenience store: you don’t want to have to drive everywhere.
Note that specialty and boutique hotels can book out well in advance, in contrast to my advice that you can wait on hotel bookings. Country settings – castles turned to inns, especially – are popular for weekend weddings, especially in summer. If your heart is set on one, you may need to book very far ahead.
That’s usually not too much of an issue, but not always. Where my timing strategy really fails is if you try to book a rental home or apartment. Let’s start with the tools: AirBnB, and VRBO (aka HomeAway). Both are very useful, I’ve favored the latter for country locations, the former for apartments in cities. For apartments and country rentals, you definitely want to check Google street view: you have to see where you are, and what’s around, and you’ll clearly want a restaurant and grocery store in walking distance. Don’t trap yourself way out in the country with no access to anything else.
These vacation rentals, like the wedding favorite hotels, book out very early, especially for peak seasons. That’s because they’re popular with locals, who don’t have to fly down. If I’m German, and I know I want to vacation in Tuscany next summer, flights aren’t a concern, and so I’ll book a villa 8-10 months in advance. And forget booking anything in August in southern Europe, that’s when France and Spain go on holiday. Anything that’s still open will have been booked long ago. Big cities like Paris or Madrid come to a standstill in August, as service personnel are taking their break. You’re lucky to get a sandwich (though, you can use this to your advantage – apartments may be available).
City apartments and villas are your best deal for cost savings, especially with an extended family. And availability in a big city is usually not a problem, though you’ll have to settle for residential neighborhoods that are removed from tourist sites (not a problem, right?) Outside of the direct cost (usually cheaper than a hotel) you have access to a kitchen, and can save a lot of meals. I love the idea of picking out produce from a Paris market. Then again, I’m probably not cooking it. Only you can decide how much you want to purely relax on your trip, which includes not having to cook. Or wash sheets & towels (though having easy access to a washing machine is a huge plus).
Other things to consider on the apartment rental: who do you turn to if something goes wrong on your trip? It can be hugely advantageous to have a concierge, or just a B&B owner, to help you on the ground if needed, even if it’s just for a little local advice. Your guidebooks will only go so far.
Lastly: I don’t know about you, but I’m mildly uncomfortable staying in another person’s home without them there. It feels like an invasion of privacy: I’m keenly aware that the stuff around me is not mine. Obviously that’s the case in a hotel, but that’s different: none of that is anyone’s personal stuff, so I’m much more comfortable with it. I know there’s nothing there that can’t be replaced; not the case in a house rental, and I know this from being on the other end of the relationship. In a hotel, I’m a customer, and customer is king; in a house rental, I’m a paying guest: it’s just a different feel.
This is not always a severe problem – when I do beach rentals, I’m know the furniture is not really personal – it’s been designated by a rental agency, frequently. That may be the same case in a Paris apartment – it could be a pure rental – but I wouldn’t know.
So – I encourage booking a rental over a hotel, but know what you’ll be missing (fresh sheets daily!) and plan for it. And shop very early, or off-season, the best ones are snapped up well in advance.
Now, you got to think about stuff. I played around a little more with the PackIt app; perfectly reasonable app, but it misses some key points. Here’s what you need to know about packing for Europe.
Start with the luggage. Naturally you want a good set, sturdy – some swear by hard-sided luggage, like Rimowa, but I’ve owned cars that cost less. Other bags have cool features like build-in seats and battery rechargers. If you fly every other month, sure. Otherwise, buy your luggage at TJ Maxx. You want a bag that rolls well with minimal effort; the handle should extend and retract easily. I like to have curb protectors at the bottom of the suitcase.
Most important: You really want to make sure you have a good size to weight ratio. Each bag is allowed to weight 50lbs, above that they start to charge (and they have gotten strict on this). You want a bag that has the most room with the least weight. Usually, you would be hard-pressed to fill a large bag and reach 50lbs. Clothes are not dense enough to get you there. Or, they were. We use individual packing cubes which help condense the clothes, and as a result, I’ve reached that 50lbs limit on my bag more than once.
You can get two smaller bags: on international flights you get two for free. But that does not necessarily carry over to a domestic connection, that second bag may cost you $75. Plus, you really don’t want to negotiate Europe – airports, town, hotel stairs – with two pieces of luggage. Take one plus a carry-on that you can shoulder-strap. So I shoot for a large bag under 9lbs, you can get that for under $100 easily.
Now, what to pack? Obviously that depends on where you’re going and what you’re doing. You’ll need to scout out the projected weather in advance; beware that northern Europe is quite variable, especially in summer. Count on rain if you’re spending June in England or Germany. Even Paris is tough to predict: We were there in mid-July, and one day the high was 60. If you’re north of the Alps, make sure you have at least one warm outfit, even in summer.
South of the Alps you’re more likely to get consistently warm weather once spring starts. Yes, March in Italy can be very rainy, so don’t think you’ll be on the beach: have indoor activities planned (luckily museums abound).
Anyway, you probably have all this figured out. So, where do I have anything to add? This: pack your bag to 50lbs total weight. Put in everything you think you need. Then take out 15lbs to get to the core of things you *really* need. OK, 10lbs if needed, but no less, and shoot for 15.
OK, so why are you going with empty space? Because you’ll be taking stuff back, of course! You knew that, but go ahead and plan for it. The usual suspect is wine, I always try to take two bottles back from wherever I’m going. You can’t take the wine/liquor back in the flight cabin with you, it has to be checked. And it weighs more than clothes. Ignore Duty Free; yes, you don’t have to pack Duty Free booze, it’s waiting for you when you get off the plane, but it counts to your import alcohol allotment, and the prices are fair at best, which is a shame: they used to be a great deal. I recall Bombay Sapphire 1.75L for $30 or so; no longer. Maybe they’re still good on cigarettes, but I wouldn’t know.
You also want to have room to purchase other bulky items on the way. Want to have a picnic in Paris? You’ll need a blanket, which will make a great souvenir. Sweaters, too, in case you have an unexpectedly chilly day. You can’t go to Italy without at least looking at shoes. And maybe a can of olive oil (you won’t be able to take many agro products back, like cheese or salami, but oils & vinegars are good to go).
You get a rebate on the Value Added Tax on purchases of manufactured goods, when you leave the country: have the retailer fill out a form and you can claim it at the airport. It’s 20% or so, and, coupled with the stronger dollar, makes several purchases in Europe quite affordable. Doesn’t work for wine, but quality wines are very affordable there anyway, so you won’t really care.
Lastly: you know enough to bring an electric converter, but remember to bring an extension cord. The converter you bring may have two outlets,tops, but you’ll want more. And the cord makes it more convenient. 6’ will do.
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